The best things to do in Malasaña, Madrid

If it is in style, you’ll find it in Malasaña. It used to be a district where the grannies and granddads met in the street and gossiped about their neighbours. Then the hipsters showed up, and rents increased, bikes took over, and bakeries started charging double for muffins; bars switched from toothpicks and those little serviettes that don’t absorb anything to building in huge windows and owners providing chairs and tables inherited from those grandparents they ran out of the neighbourhood (and now it is vintage furniture!). Luckily, the classic ‘old-man’ bars in the area have survived by not changing. Similarly, traditional bookshops and brave record stores have kept their spots in the barrio.

Malasaña is one of the most popular areas to go in search of some nighttime fun. Its streets are lined with plenty of spots with all kinds of music drawing diverse crowds. Metalheads will feel at home at the dark Rey Lagarto, with mini ‘calimochos’ (red wine mixed with Coke) at a decent price; those nostalgic for La Movida days flock to TupperWare or El Penta. While the choosier punters prefer a (pricey) beer at a spot like Kikekeller, anyone looking for a riskier option might get a cold beer at a shop and drink it in the open air of Plaza del Dos de Mayo or Plaza San Ildefonso – though this practice seems commonplace, it’s not actually legal, and you can face a fine. Whatever your musical taste or preferred surroundings, you’re sure to find the perfect spot for a tipple in Malasaña.

The graffiti in this neck of the woods has not only survived city cleanings; it is treated as art. And it truly is. From the metal shutters of closed restaurants to the corners of ancient buildings, this art is a part of the streets of Malasaña. So much so that groups such as the Madrid Street Art Project have organised tours to show off the best works that decorate the neighbourhood. There are many art associations and small galleries in this area as well.

Nearly every week, it feels like a new restaurant opens in Malasaña. Most offer a Sunday brunch, let you bring your pet, and give you a place to store your bike inside. Market fresh or fusion dishes are on the menu, and the décor is usually an industrial design base, with armchairs, mismatched wooden tables and chairs, exposed brick walls, wide silver pipes on the ceiling, and lamps made of just a cord and a bulb. If you take a good look around, you’ll also find good old-fashioned tapas bars as well.